Thinking Ahead
I have to admit I didn’t take my own advice. I’ve made the farro salad from this week’s Berkshire Eagle column any number of times, most recently when I was preparing this recipe for publication, measuring everything more carefully than I usually would with this kind of dish.
Since it was getting close to summer, I suggested that readers could make a big bowl when they see the forecast trending hotter. And yet I didn’t make it yesterday, the last day before a heat dome settles in over the Northeast! You could certainly substitute raw vegetables for the roasted suggestions so as not to turn on the oven, or you could tuck this recipe away for the next time there’s going to be a heat wave!
FARRO THE LEADER
by Elizabeth Baer
Oh, how I remember those days when we were both working and there were kids still at home and how complicated meal planning used to be! Over the weekend we would consult the calendar to figure out who would be home for dinner when, and then plan major cooking to provide leftovers as needed. Sometimes I’d even roast a turkey with Thanksgiving fixings to last well into a busy week, either for a full dinner plate or for sandwiches.
Now that the kids are grown and gone and we’re both retired, one of my small pleasures is not thinking ahead like that, having the chance to be more spontaneous about what I want to cook on any given day. That is, until a heat wave sets in.
When I check the long-range forecast and see hot and humid weather ahead, I like to get some cooking done before the temperatures climb. One favorite go-to is a big bowl of a sturdy salad which we can scoop day after day, and lately I’ve been playing with different combinations of vegetables and farro.
The word farro denotes a wheat grain, but from there it can get complicated. There are three different species that can be called farro, and different ways that it is processed. This means the cooking time can vary widely as noted in the instructions below. (If you buy a branded product, just follow the instructions on the package, but if you buy it in bulk, I’ve given cooking guidelines in the recipe here.)
I like to make farro salad with roasted vegetables – another step to complete before it gets warm – and the possibilities are endless. It should be a sturdy vegetable, such as fennel, cauliflower, or carrots, and I like to add something from the allium family to roast alongside, such as shallot or onion. Dried fruit adds sweetness, olives and feta cheese bring salty umami flavors, and red peppers add a touch of color. If you want to add protein but it’s too hot to do anything, buy a roasted chicken at the store, cut into pieces, and add to the salad. If planning to eat this over the course of several days, have some olive oil and vinegar at the table to add as needed in case the farro has become a bit dry, having absorbed all the moisture from the added ingredients
FARRO AND ROASTED VEGETABLE SALAD
Serves 6-8, can be doubled
INGREDIENTS:
1 fennel bulb or other sturdy vegetable, sliced thin
1 shallot or ½ onion, cut into thin half-moons
½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil, divided, plus more as needed
1 cup farro
¼ cup dried fruit, whole if small like raisins or chopped if bigger like apricots
1 whole lemon
½ roasted red pepper, chopped (store-bought is fine)
¼ cup chopped olives, black, green, or a combination
¼ cup flat-leaf parsley, chopped
2 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
Fresh ground pepper to taste
Cider vinegar, if needed
DIRECTIONS:
Preheat oven to 400°F and line a half sheet pan with foil for easy clean up.
In a medium bowl, toss the sliced fennel or other vegetable and shallot or onion with kosher salt and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Spread in a single layer on the prepared half sheet pan. Roast for 20-25 minutes until the vegetables are beginning to brown in spots. Remove from the oven and set aside.
Meanwhile, cook the farro. If using a brand with cooking instruction, follow the steps on the package. If purchased in bulk without cooking instructions, rinse the farro in a fine-meshed sieve. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil, add the farro, and stir. Reduce the heat and cook at a lively simmer. Depending on the type of farro, it can take anywhere from 15-45 minutes (or even longer sometimes), depending on how the grain has been processed. Taste for doneness. It should be tender but chewy, with a bit of an al dente feeling to it. Drain through a fine-meshed sieve and place in a large bowl.
While the farro is cooking, place the dried fruit in a small bowl and cover with hot water. Allow to plump for 15-20 minutes, then drain.
Using a fine-toothed grater, such as a Microplane, zest the lemon skin directly over the farro. Juice the lemon into a small bowl or measuring cup, and pour through a strainer into the bowl with the farro. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and stir to combine well.
Add the drained dried fruit, red pepper, parsley, and feta cheese. Stir to combine. Taste and add pepper, additional olive oil, and cider vinegar as needed. Do not add salt at this time as the saltiness of olives and feta can vary, and over time the farro may absorb saltiness. Cover and place in the refrigerator to cool.
When ready to serve, taste again. Add additional salt, pepper, olive oil, and cider vinegar as desired. When eating this over several days’ time, adjust the flavors and texture as needed, depending on how much moisture the farro has absorbed.